Yue and I recently took a trip down to Rhode Island to visit some family, and in the process we took a bit of a whirlwind tour around the state to try out some new restaurants that had opened since I moved away a few years ago. Mare was one such place, located in Wayland Square on Providence’s East Side. Mare features an enclosed rooftop space atop a small high-rise building. The menu features a variety of elevated seafood options, most of them locally sourced from the Narragansett Bay region.
Mare does its best business in the summer, when they can open up their space to include the wrap-around rooftop deck, which seems like a great place to have an evening cocktail and watch the sun set over the Providence river before a night out on the town. Unfortunately for us, when we went to Mare it was about 25 degrees and completely dark, so we didn’t get to take full advantage of the view, but after having spent my early years in Providence, I’m familiar enough with the local environs to fill in the details.
But Mare has much more to offer than just ambiance, and the delicious food more than made up for our poor timing. Being a restaurant in Rhode Island, one would expect Mare to take its pasta dishes seriously, so it came as no surprise that the linguine with clams that Yue ordered was excellent, with just the right amount of briney flavor to give the pasta an interesting texture. Meanwhile, I went with seared scallops over a bed of sweet potatoes, covered in a port wine and blood orange glaze. The glaze made the scallops just a bit firm on the outside, while keeping the inner meat soft.
In my lifetime, Providence has successfully rebranded itself as a cultural capital and has carved out its niche among other small New England cities as a premier place for art and entertainment. This produces a competitive environment for restaurateurs as the burgeoning youth population of Providence looks for the newest and hippest places to go and to be seen going. Restaurants in Providence live and die by either their gimmicks and the quality of their food, and Mare has excelled in both regards. In the time since I left Providence for Boston, many of my favorite haunts have closed down or been taken over by new management, so it is gratifying to see that newcomers are stepping up to fill the space left by some of my old favorites.
We’ll be returning to Mare over the summer to get the full effect of the space, and if you find yourself in Providence, it’s certainly worth a try.